Foolproof, elegantly impressive, and blessedly mess free, cooking en papillote is a busy cook’s get-out-of-jail-free card. With the exception of the densest fish species, such as sturgeon or lingcod, all fish take well to this cooking method, and it’s so easy to customize each diner’s little parchment-paper packet. Here, rich steelhead is simply flavored with a little butter, lemon, and herbs, and then served with a sweet-tart compote of apples and raisins. But you can change things up with different herbs or spices, and even thinly sliced or shaved vegetables that will cook with the fish right in the pouch.
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