4 x 180 grams pieces of cod fillet, skin off, pin boned, from sustainable source
4 baby courgettes with flowers
80 grams Kalamata olives, stone in
16 clams, from sustainable sources
100 milliliters dry white wine
200 grams blanched whole almonds
800 milliliters semi-skimmed milk
1 handful of FSC-approved wood chips for smoking, such as hickory
2 bulbs of fennel
1 clove of garlic
40 grams unsalted butter, plus 1 knob for the fish
1 teaspoon fennel seeds
Optional: 1/2 teaspoon fennel pollen
1 tablespoon white balsamic vinegar
4 heaped teaspoons caster sugar
To make the purée, place the almonds and milk into a small saucepan on a medium-low heat and simmer gently for one hour.
Place a large sheet of clingfilm on a board and grease all over with olive oil. Arrange a quarter of the ham on the clingfilm, overlapping the slices.
Season a cod fillet with sea salt, place it at one end of the ham and tightly roll it up like a sausage – use the clingfilm to help you turn it. Twist each end like a cracker and roll it against the board to tighten further, then knot each end. Repeat with the remaining fish and ham to make four cod parcels. Set aside until ready to cook.
Strain the almonds through a sieve set over a bowl to catch the milk. Tip the almonds into a blender with 250 milliliters of the reserved milk and blend until smooth, adding a splash more milk if needed. Have a taste and season with sea salt.
Pour the purée into a heatproof bowl and place into a small roasting tray. Scattering the wood chips around the bowl, then cover tightly with foil. Place the tray on the hob on a medium-low heat and smoke for ten minutes. Give the purée a stir, check the seasoning, then cover and set aside.
Fill a pan with boiling water, lower in your cod parcels (see tip) and poach on a low heat for eight minutes with the lid on. Remove and set aside until needed.
Meanwhile, prepare the marmalade. Trim and finely chop the fennel, reserving any leafy tops for later. Peel and finely chop the onion and garlic. Melt the butter in a medium saucepan with one tablespoon olive oil on a medium-low heat. Add the fennel seeds and pollen (if using), cook for one minute, then add the onion, garlic, vinegar and sugar. Finely zest in the oranges, then squeeze in all the juice and simmer for 20 minutes or until softened and lightly caramelised.
Carefully remove the clingfilm from the fish parcels and pat dry with kitchen paper. Slice the baby courgettes in half, lengthways. Pit the olives and discard the stones. Sort through the clams, giving any that aren’t tightly closed a tap. If they don’t close, discard them.
Place a large frying pan on a medium-high heat with one tablespoon of oil. Add the fish and fry for a few minutes or until golden and crispy all over, turning regularly with tongs. Add the courgettes, cut-side down, halfway through, along with the clams. Remove the fish parcels and courgettes to a board, leaving the clams in the pan.
Pour in the wine, then throw in the knob of butter and olives, and cook for two minutes more or until the clams have steamed open.
Carefully slice each fish parcel into three and arrange on a plate with a good dollop of the purée (cheffy swipe optional) and the courgettes. Spoon over the clams and olives, along with some pan juices, then scatter with the reserved fennel tops, and serve.